Alice Springs
Backed by the rugged MacDonnell Ranges, Alice Springs sits in the centre of
Australia, a melting pot of cultures and traditions. Its 26,000 people include a
large number of Aboriginal people, families descended from pioneers who built
The Alice (as most locals call it) in the late 1800s, and thousands of short
term contract workers from all over Australia. The US has a large defence
communications facility near the town, so don't be surprised if the person who
serves your drinks or sells the souvenirs is from Chicago or downtown Dallas.
The pioneering spirit survives alongside the culture of the indigenous Arrernte
people and the influences of city folk sent there by companies or simply
escaping the pressures of urban living. This is the place to learn about
Aboriginal culture starting with a fascinating range of tours by local guides at
the Aboriginal Art & Culture Centre which includes a gallery of indigenous art
and music. Don't miss the Albert Namatjira Gallery in the Araluen Centre.
Namatjira and his teacher Rex Batterbee painted landscapes in the European style
capturing the amazing colours of the land around The Alice. Namatjira's mauve
and purple hills were sneered at by city art lovers until they realised his
watercolours has captured the very essence of the countryside. Take a hot air
balloon ride over the MacDonnell Ranges and see for yourself.
In sharp contrast, traditional Aboriginal art is two-dimensional and uses
vibrant earth colours and intricate patterns based on folklore thousands of
years old.
There are many sites around Alice Springs of great cultural significance to the
Arrernte linked to the Dreaming, a period when the land was created and their
ancestors given their place as part of it. While their deepest meanings are held
secret, there is much to be learned.
A long way from nowhere, the town is just a little crazy. Who else would cancel
a boat race if its rains? The Henley on Todd Regatta held in October sees grown
men and women racing boats down the Todd River which runs through the town. So
what? The river is almost always a dead dry stream of sand, the boats are made
of empty beer cans, and the crews run carrying the hulls, which have no bottoms.
Tradition insists the crew drink the beer from all the cans used in the hull.
Rain, even if it falls miles away can turn the Todd into a raging torrent.
The Camel Cup is huge fun and a major social event. Run by the Lions Club for
charity in July, it's a day of camel races followed by polo on camelback. There
are novelty events, bands, plenty of food, drink, and bookmakers to take your
bets. Fancy horseracing? The Alice Springs Cup Carnival offers six days of
racing in April. And if you prefer to chance your hand at roulette, blackjack or
the slot machines in air-conditioned comfort, Lasseter's Casino is open daily.
Territorians love a wager and the casino opened long before casinos in most
major cities. Alice Springs remains the smallest town in Australia to have one.
You will never go hungry in The Alice, which has most of the international fast
food chains and restaurants ranging from Asian to Swiss. Some specialise in Bush
Tucker, using the fruit, roots and leaves of native plants once known only to
Aboriginal people. Try buffalo, kangaroo or crocodile. Expertly cooked, all are
excellent. The town has daily air services to most capitals, so what does not
grow there is flown in.
There are close to 40 places you can stay from four and a half star hotels and
guest houses to simple backpacker and youth hostels. But most are quite small
and you must book ahead.
Alice Springs was born during the building of the Overland Telegraph Line which
linked Darwin to civilisation in Adelaide (the capital of South Australia), 3700
kilometres to the south. The line, and today's Stuart Highway, followed the
route of explorer John McDowell Stuart who finally crossed the continent from
south to north on his third attempt in 1860.
Hundreds of camels were imported from Afghanistan with their handlers to carry
supplies over the harsh, dry, trackless centre of Australia. A permanent
waterhole, named Alice Spring after the wife of the head of South Australia's
posts and telegraph authority, decided the location of the Overland Telegraph
Station there in the 1870s. It was the seed of a township originally called
Stuart. In 1933, when it was renamed Alice Springs, there were just 400
residents. The telegraph station is now the centre of a historical reserve at
the north end of town.
If anyone wants to send me any pictures so I can place them
on the site then email me at
tim@timsaxon.co.uk
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